Bonding separate pieces of PLA to one another

[dkightley]

That friction welding technique shown in the video is quite a neat idea.

I've given it a quick try on a couple of scrap PLA pieces. It seems to work....but my RotoCraft drill's chuck doesn't have suitably sized collets to hold 1.75mm diameter filament without first wrapping it in tape or similar....so its a pain feeding the filament out of the chuck as it gets used! I have some PTFE tube of possible suitable size on order which might solve the issue.

It needs some high intensity blue LEDs shining on the end of the filament that flash on and off at a high rate.....to give the effect of welding!!

[RonaldTrump16]

PLA is one of those materials that appears to be somewhat difficult to dissolve...see this blog for some easy-to-understand experiments in dissolving: http://www.vinland.com/blog/?p=68 And finding a solvent may be a little dangerous!! Try Googling the subject!!

Personally, I use Loctite superglue to bond PLA. It seems to work...but I've never scientifically or physically tested how well it bonds

Yeah, whenever possible, I avoid solvent adhesives: http://www.gluemachinery.com/dangers-solvent-vapors/. I know they're necessary sometimes, so I get why people use them, but lots of people I know use them way too often.

[RomeFallsAgain]

UPDATE

I tried the methylene chloride

While it scares me to use it because of he fumes....for a solid fusion of two 3D printed parts, it's probably as good as it gets.
Like Doug said, it does fuse the parts.

I think it's basically paint stripper. So it will melt PLA, ABS etc. I'm surprised it doesn't melt the plastic applicator bottle.
Must be a special type of plastic.

It also evaporates like crazy. Even in my sealed applicator bottle, it will all vanish within a few days. That means it's going into the air. That means if there's any methylene chloride remaining in your applicator bottle, you should put it in a WELL ventilated area.

[bbinnard]

http://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10799-Acr ... ge_o02_s01

This stuff is fairly nasty because it is highly volatile. It evaporated faster than acetone and dries out your skin almost immediately if it gets on you. But it works well for PLA - pretty much like acetone does for ABS. Use it outside or with a fan blowing on and away from you.

[zemlin]

I've used JB Weld on PLA parts. The glue joint will debond from the part before you break the part, but I haven't had anything all apart yet. I make sure both surfaces are well covered with the epoxy before clamping them together.

It is gray and not real easy to clean up after it's oozed out, but if you're careful you can make an OK looking part.

[bobg]

Try E.M.A. Model Supplies 'Plastic Weld'. I have successfully used this on PLA from:
Colido
Rigid
Prusa

Melts the plastic together so best adhesion is after slight movement of surfaces after applying the glue with a small brush. Flows by capillary action into joint. . Available from most Model Railway Shops.