Cant get these gaps to fill

[deadpool66]

Gaps around buttons tried adjusting overlap no dice seems to make no difference. I cant get the buttons or dpad to print all the way to the line.

Tried overlap up to 50% and still same result



current settings
Rostock Max V2 e3d

top layer 4
bottom layers 4
outer shells 2
210 nozzel temp using hatchbox blue
100% infill
Nozzel Diam 4.0
extrusion multiplier 0.95
extrusion width .50
retraction distance 1.50
retraction vertical lift 0.30
retraction speed 1800.0
coasting distance 1.00
layer heights between 1500 and 2000 make no difference
printing speeds I've tried 1600.00 all the way to 3000.00 for printing speeds with little to no difference.

[brian442]

I would just keep increasing the outline overlap until they go away. Try 70-80%. I would also set the default printing speed to something slower like 1800mm/min.

Finally, you may also want to increase the extrusion multiplier a bit in case you are under-extruding

[SHoutzager]

What speed are you printing? The multiplier setting also controls how wide the plastic is. When was the last time you changed nozzles out?

[deadpool66]

Brand new e3d hotend so I doubt its the nozzel but Ill try maybe tightening it a bit. I have been experimenting with speeds from as low as 1400 to 2500.

Setting the overlap to 80 almost does the trick 85 or 90 would probably eliminate the issue however everything I've read says dont go over 50. I cranked the multiplier up and it does extrude more but still was leaving gaps.

Im printing another right now see looks good so far.

[cyberreefguru]

I've found when I get areas where the print is not overlapping properly it is due to under extrusion, not necessarily the settings in S3D. Have you checked to ensure your printer is extruding the proper amount?

-Tom

[dkightley]

From the photo, it looks as if you're printing this part face down....and the issue is with the first layer. If this is correct, I suggest:

*Reduce the first layer thickness down to say 70 or 80%...this will give a thinner layer with the same amount of plastic being extruded.
*Drop the model down by adjusting the Global-z offset by -0.1 mm....this will help squish the first layer so that gaps, etc are removed
*Set the first layer speed reduction to say 50%...printing the first layer slowly usually give a better finish
*Make sure you have no cooling fan running until layer 2...PLA is best printed with no cooling for the first layer,
*Up the temperature for the first layer to say 220 degrees.....printing hot will make the plastic flow easier, helping to fill gaps.

All values are suggestions based on guesses. You may need to adjust to get a better finish...you should be able to get rid of all those diagonal lines as well!

[greybeard]

I print many parts like yours for my Arduino gizmo’s - holes for buttons, switches, LCD, screws… these Printing tips may help… (some mentioned by others)

PLA Material - I won’t use Hatchbox again (I tossed out several spools). I prefer eSun.
Print Temp: When the FF box says 210max, I use 225. When box say 220max, I use 235C.
Bed Temp: 50C until the part is done (otherwise, part can release from bed and move)
Outline overlap: 25%
Infill density: 25%
Infill angle (add one for -45deg to get good cross-hatch). Infill supports the top layers
Min infill length: 1mm
Infill: Rect (both internal and external). Depending on your part, internal can be Concentric)
Extrusion Mult: 1.02 to 1.05 for PLA
Extrusion Width: Manual

Ensure bottom layer bonds to bed and, you’re better off setting the bed/nozzle gap using a cigarette rolling paper (prefer the silk kind like ZigZag - it’s thin) for a shim.

With those parameters, your results could be like shown in attached photo (note: these are ‘as-printed’ not yet cleaned up. Zero gap’s and, the super thin nozzle-gap ensures a glass-like bottom layer, as seen on the gear’s bottom (shown). For more accurate dim’s, increase the First layer height to ~125%

[prototyper]

Hi, I'm also printing gears, module 0.5 and I'm still having some fill issues.
Maybe I reached the limit of the printer (FF Dreamer 0.4 nozzle).
The gear itself looks not bad, but the teeth are not filled, so it won't be a very stable construction.
The pic attached is made with a x4 lense on my microscope.

Any hints which "screws" I should turn to get a better result ?
Does any one has a settings proposal ?

thanks
Stefan

[greybeard]

A couple of comments…

It’s printed plastic and subject to variations of machine, setup, belt slop, print and slice parameters.

With 0.4 nozzle, all you can do is quasi-trick s3d by changing the nozzle tip size in s3d (try 0.3… others) But, don’t expect miracles. You may be able to change the nozzle on your machine (most machine facilitate this).

Consider that a 0.5 module tooth has nearly a pointed tip and root - with nozzle tip of 0.4, the print won’t be accurate but may be all your project needs… I use my printed gears for telescopes and are deadly accurate for the purpose.

When you say "not stable construction" consider that shell, though not filled, is strong enough for something a gear with 0.5module would be expected to take the load (face pressure). Also, graphic slice renderings are not exactly the same as a printed part.

You should tinker with parameters such as: see images

[darmanin]

Have you calibrated your extrusion width with a calibration object to the .5 value you are using in your settings? If not, is it possible that you do not have a .5mm extrusion width, but S3D is slicing as if you do, leaving a gap?