FlashForge Dreamer Simplify3D Process Profile

[pelgrid]

Hi Baron,

Trying to use your profile in Simlify3D to print on my Flashforge Dreamer. When I import an STL it only shows the bottom part. It looks like the dimensions of the axes is too small.
Any idea ?

thanks
Dirk

[KeyboardWarrior]

Hi Baron,

Trying to use your profile in Simlify3D to print on my Flashforge Dreamer. When I import an STL it only shows the bottom part. It looks like the dimensions of the axes is too small.
Any idea ?

thanks
Dirk

Can you post the STL, that would help if we were able to download it and try it out ourselves.

[pelgrid]

Hi guys,

I already managed to get the complete STL in, so that problem is solved.
I loaded the instructions from Baron on the profile and the firmware of the FF Dreamer.
I have then imported my STL file and sliced it.
I can not get it connected through USB, so I dropped my file on an SD card and have tried on printing.
The extruder starts to move, the color of the lamp changes as described by Baron, except when it all reaches the temperature for printing, the extruder homes instead of starting to print.
Are there any other suggestions you guys can supply to fix this problem.
I for the moment use Flashprint but I do feel restricted by this software.
I would like to start using Simplyfy3D.

Thanks for any help,
Dirk

[pelgrid]

Hello, is this forum active.

I have a FF Deamer and would like to use Simplify. I managed to download the profiles.
The colors are changing, but nothing comes out priting. The extruder moves, but does not print.
Who can help me on this ? Can you share print screens how to set up correctly,

Many thanks
Dirk

[tri-lite]

If you post here in the forum to get help, please attach your Factory File (see image for how to save them). This allows anyone else to view your complete work environment (models, settings, supports, etc.) The Factory File is an amazing way to trouble-shoot. Without the Factory File, everyone has to respond with multiple questions.

[BaronWilliams]

Hi there.

I purchased a Dreamer a week ago and am looking for ways to optimize it's performance - I'm relatively new to 3D printing but I'm already finding limitations in the flashprint software, and what you guys are doing with Simplify3D looks like some amazing work. I will probably take the plunge and buy the software.

I was wondering BaronWilliams, what steps have you taken to combat curling when printing with ABS on the Dreamer? What sort of things have you done to the settings in your dual extrusion profile? I couldn't get good results with the Kapton tape, and I'm trying the blue tape now with better results but it still curls at the edges. At this point I am just using the flashprint software with default settings, and my plate is absolutely dead level (it's easy on this machine because it is so well made and solid). I've seen people using hairspray, glass plates, various tapes, even making weird slurries out of acetone and ABS...

What do you do with your build plate on that machine?

Sorry for the late reply. I have not had much time to visit forums lately.

When I print using ABS, I now use Kapton almost exclusively. The key to getting prints to stick to Kapton, I've found, is to make sure the surface is extremely clean each time I print. I wipe the Kapton surface clean with acetone followed by isopropyl alcohol.

The build plate needs to be about 110 C for most of the ABS I use. At 100 C, most of my ABS doesn't stick well and curls or pops loose (especially if the object has sharp corners touching the build plate). I never use hairspray, glass, slurries, etc. I do sometimes use blue painter's tape, which works better for PLA when not heating the build plate. But I rarely print with PLA. The optimal build plate temperature is filament related. Some ABS filament does fine at 100 C, but most of my ABS needs 110 C.

I have found ABS curling to be an issue if printing on a build plate that's not quite hot enough. If curling is a major issue on Kapton, it's likely that the build plate is not hot enough. At 100 C, most of my large prints are likely to curl. At 105 C, the likelihood is much less. At 110 C, I rarely see this happen. At 110 C, curling can still sometimes happen, depending on the shape being printed. Very large shapes with long straight walls that touch the build plate which have right angle turns on them, such as a large cube, are the most difficult to print without edge curling. Even PLA, can show some edge curling on these kinds of shapes. I don't often print shapes of that nature.

Tricks like ABS slurry, Elmer's Glue Stick, etc., will not completely stop edge curling, despite claims to the contrary. A large cube printed with ABS, even on such a coated surface, is still likely to curl if the build plate is too cold, pulling up the glue or dried ABS slurry with it because the shrinking forces are very strong for that kind of shape.

If a shape is almost impossible to print without edge curling, and you've tried ABS slurry, Elmer's Glue Stick, etc., it's time to start printing the shape on a large thick raft. I know everyone hates rafts, but sometimes that's the only thing that works for certain objects. Have your object print above the curling point on the raft. For example, if curling happing up until 5 mm, then make your raft 8 mm thick and print on top of that. That should work.

[BaronWilliams]

Hello, is this forum active.

I have a FF Deamer and would like to use Simplify. I managed to download the profiles.
The colors are changing, but nothing comes out priting. The extruder moves, but does not print.
Who can help me on this ? Can you share print screens how to set up correctly,

Many thanks
Dirk

I assume you're using the file: FlashForge Dreamer Dual Extruder 0_125a.fff

I have an updated version of the profile which I am currently using. I will post that later. I am using the latest firmware from FlashForge. Everything is working. Both heads print properly.

You say that your print head is moving but is not printing. Do you see it going through all the motions of printing but not see the filament extruding? So it's printing "air"? If this is the case then your stepstruders are not powered on for some reason. That might indicate a problem with the firmware configuration in Simplify3D. If you could post your factory file, I could look at it and see what's wrong. I seem to recall some people having trouble getting their firmware configurations to stick, and having to load the firmware files each time, or nothing works.

[BaronWilliams]

Hi Baron and thank you for sharing your settings for the FF dreamer. I tried it and it works nicely except for one thing (or maybe i've done something wrong) : if I print something with the right extruder, everything is ok but with the left one, the extruder goes out of the building plate (on the left). Any idea of the problem ?
Another question : have you already tried to use these settings for dual extrusion ?
Thanks again !

Ps : if there's a chance that any people from simplify3D is reading this post, may I suggest a software update including the flashforge dreamer in the settings ? I think that more and more people are using this nice small printer.

Hi Doomkang, I haven't been using the posted profile for some time now. I have a newer version I'm using. I'll post it later here. I am not having any problems with dual extrusion. Your Dreamer must have the offsets for the two heads set wrong, or it could have the pulley type set wrong. These are firmware settings on the Dreamer itself. There's no way to control those settings, as far as I know, from Simplify3D. You'll need to use FlashPrint and the Dreamer's own built in configuration screen to fix these values if they are wrong.

When I upgraded my Dreamer firmware recently, the pulley type was set wrong in the Dreamer when it rebooted. It was set to "Black" or something like that. That setting caused everything I printed on my Dreamer to be smaller and offset to the left. I had to change it to "Silver" or whatever the other setting was in order to get prints to work properly again. That setting is only configured using the Dreamer's touch panel display. I suggest checking to see if that's set wrong. It will surely cause print offset problems if its set wrong.

[BaronWilliams]

FYI, the "reason" for setting 80% of stepper current for PLA is to reduce the motor heat. Since the extruder motor is coupled to the main mounting bar that is supposed to cool the thermal barrier tube of the extruder and since the Dreamer is enclosed, the entire cooling system is not as effective. As such, PLA which has a low glass transition temperature can become soft passing through the filament drive section and buckle or other problems if the stepper motor is run at 100% current in a closed environment.

So yes, the 80% current for PLA makes perfect sense.

That's good to know. Did that information come from FlashForge directly?

[pcarlson]

Hi all,

Thanks for the file Baron. I just bought Simplify3D because on their website it said Flashforge Dreamer is now supported but once installed it is not in the list of available printers but their customer support sent me the Process files and Firmware files. I also used yours as well. I find yours a bit better because their file set extrusion multiplier to 0.9 which resulted in under extrusion.

I have now done my first good print, it was an XT60 connector (basically a rectangle) but instead of doing the inner layer and then outer layer (as set in settings) it would do the inner layer clockwise and then do a U turn and do the outer layer anti-clockwise. This results in a 180 degree turn which leaves a gap in the corner. How can I set the software to perform all outlines to happen in the same direction?

The weird thing is that sometimes it would do both the inner and outer layers BOTH clockwise and this results in a perfect finish, the problem happens when it decides to change direction. Has anyone else had this problem?

Could someone please print this file and see if it prints well for you. It only costs less than a cent.

link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:366674

Phillip