Simplify3D and Having Calibration Issues with Robo3D R1+

[NaughtyGarfield]

Hello Guys and Gals,

Just bought the Simplify3D after hearing all the great raves. However the first print with everything default ended in disaster. Where is their profile so off? I have no idea. Anyways, using MatterControl software I am getting great prints, however one of the Robo3D forum member suggest that Simplify3D's support for 3D was second to none, so I jumped the gun and bought the software, however the first print doesn't even print on the bed the filament was simply floating. So I am not sure why the auto calibration between MatterControl and Simplify 3D was so far off.. So Any recommendations?

My second issues is with the Extruder and Bed Temps. I set the bed to 0C and the extruder 1st layer to be default 210C. But that's really too hot so I wanted to start the 2nd layer at 187C which tested and works great for me. However, after heating up the printer to 210C, the printer then adjust the temperature back down to 0. I think the software is getting the bed and extruder messed up.. Not sure if this has anything to do with Temperature Identifier?

Lastly, since the print is floating in the air, I copied my start script from the MC to S3D and not sure if that also contribute the issues with extruder goes from 210c to 0c. Any help is greatly appreciated!

MC Start Script:
G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
M109 S[temperature] ; set the extruder temp and wait
G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Home Z again in case there was filament on nozzle
G29 ; probe the bed

S3D Start Script (Calibration Issues):
G28 ; home all axes
G29 ; probe the bed
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
M109 S[extruder0_temperature] ; set the extruder temp and wait
G28 X0 Y0 ; home again to start wipe
G1 X20 Z0 F4800 ; wipe

[CompoundCarl]

I've used their profile with the R1+ before and I didn't have to make any adjustments for the first layer. However, it's quite common when switching between programs that you might need to make a slight change. It's all easy to do from within the software. This link explains how to do it in more detail: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... to-the-bed

I've never had any issues setting the extruder temperatures using their built-in profile, but if you copied your own starting script into S3D, then that may be the reason. For example, that MC script won't work properly in S3D since they use different variables. The easiest thing to do would be to simply open the gcode file created by the software and look for any temperature commands in the file (M104 or M109 for the extruder). What commands do you see?

[lfenske]

Honestly the temperature controls are probably from you being a newbie to s3d. I use different processes and temperature settings all the time without issue. Just set the correct heater, and hit "ok" don't just exit out.

As for the bed leveling, thats the fatal flaw of the robo 3d printer. I don't know if its a hardware or software issue, but it will often miscalculate the beds location. It has something to do with the two z shutoff switches. They no matter what they are never triggered exactly simultaneous to each other, which I'm sure is a mess to try and make work in the software, so the crack team at robo called it good enough. Maybe it could just be a shit de bouncer in the firmware also, I don't really know.

All I can say for sure, is to stay away from robo printers. Ill give you a list of what has gone wrong with mine, and what is wrong, and the crazy things I have to do, to keep the printer printing correctly. Here are some of it's highlights.

Randomly starts printing about 95% too tall
over extruding by 35% on just the first 3 layers
under extruding by 50% on the very first layer
regular z offset issues
printer stopping in the middle of the print because it thinks its overheated, when its not.
printer display temp hotter than reality


currently I'm having no temp issues, but in order to get a good rip off my robo here are the current settings
Firmware change for z axis movement changed from 800 steps =1mm to 412 steps =1mm. What the fu*k.... how can that even be a feasible problem.

2 processes. First process prints the first layer at 1.5x extrusion with a -.89 z offset. the second process kicks in after the first layer, where the extrusion is set to 1.03x .


Ive been in contact with the highest level of support at robo several times, and they're scratching their heads just as much as I am about this.

[ItsBigRob]

I also have the R1+ and had a bit of issues at first. At that time I had just bought my printer and then got S3D right away. There was a learning curve at the beginning but now its all good. First off you do NOT need to set the bet temp in your starting script, as long as you have everything defined in the process how you want it it is unnecessary. Here is a copy of my default starting script;

G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
M565 Z-.80 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
G29 ; run auto-level


It also seems you have not defined your Z-offset which is the M565. This is most likely why you are printing in mid air.

I have found when starting with S3D it is better to adjust 1 thing at a time. When you change more then 1 thing you may never realize what problems you have cause b/c of your changes. Step by Step is always best. Keep things simple.

Hope this helps

[dorsai3d]

As for the bed leveling, thats the fatal flaw of the robo 3d printer. I don't know if its a hardware or software issue, but it will often miscalculate the beds location. It has something to do with the two z shutoff switches. They no matter what they are never triggered exactly simultaneous to each other, which I'm sure is a mess to try and make work in the software, so the crack team at robo called it good enough. Maybe it could just be a shit de bouncer in the firmware also, I don't really know.

I got a chance to look at one the other day, and man... that auto-leveling is cheap, but there's no way it's reliable. The bed is flexible enough that when it lowers the loose (!!it's not fastened in z!!) x axis onto the bed, the bed deflects down a bit. Of course, this is also exacerbated by the fact that the slop in the x-axis lift mechanism allows the axis to come up crooked one way on one side of the bed, and crooked the other way on the other side.

So the machine is working against (at least):

• Floppy bed, deflecting in Z
• X-axis sloppy in Z direction, allowing it to tilt in XZ plane
• uneven forces on the bed when leveling, tilting the XY plane (isn't this what it's trying to correct for?!)
• Unknown handling of the timing of two switches